The 'Green'ing of Andalucia and why it's not good

As I write, in January ’07, I have just returned from a fortnight in Spain, neatly avoiding the grey of England’s New Year. Dancing before my eyes are long and beautiful views, of the Grazalema National Park, of the hills and forest of cork oaks beyond Aracena, of rolling green countryside stretching as far as my eyes would take me. I can smell the ‘jabugo’ ham made from acorn-fed pigs, the ‘fino’ that glistens gold and generous in the glass, and the thyme plucked from the hillside. I can hear the gravelly cacophany of men pontificating below the hanging hams in the bars, the genial chatter of women bent on nothing in particular. Spain is a sensual place, and the trick when travelling is to stay with the people who can get you under its skin.

Yet all is not entirely well in southern Spain. The drought is a real worry, less urgent in winter, of course, but lurking nonetheless. Economic growth is frantic, and – as elsewhere – is crushing some of the character and countryside that we all love. We English have much to answer for, invading the coast in our hordes, speculating obsessively in property and driving demand for golf-courses in places which cannot support them. Yet there may be redemption. This week, developers are taking to court in Ronda a trio of noble expatriates who have criticised their plans for a golf-course, 800 houses and 3 hotels on the edge of the national park. They are suing for £14 million of investment lost because of the criticism. It sounds mad, but it is true. If the developers lose, then perhaps golf-courses all over Spain will tremble. If they win, then pity the cause of democratic resistance to the bulldozer.