French B&Bs
Two of our France inspectors dropped by for lunch a couple of weeks ago. They are English, living in France and addicted to the work. Part of me would love to be out there with them. It was 'news from the front line' and one of their most interesting, and depressing, revelations was that the old French B&B is slowly dying.
Our French Bed and Breakfast was our first book, filled with farming families opening their rooms to make ends meet. The book opened doors all over France, to English travellers who were unused to the idea that the French would welcome them. Thousands of relationships and friendships have been forged over the years. It is sad to hear that this wonderfully tatterdemalion community is gradually wearing away, replaced by families - equally interesting in their own way - with more money and pandering to travellers with higher expectations. Houses are converted to be little businesses. Rooms are ripped apart and bathrooms and wet-rooms installed. That old farmer's wife whose sense of colour was execrable but whose warmth and humanity were touching, who opened her doors to boost a meagre income, may be about to retire.
So if there are any of you out there who share my sense of woe, do go and spend your time and money with the people who most need it. The same applies, of course, to the UK, though perhaps less dramatically. Let us know if there are B&B providers whom we should support.
11 Comments:
I cannot believe that the lack of comments is evidence of noone reading your blog but just in case here is a comment.
Having had a wonderful night in of your French B&Bs many years ago I am very sad to hear of their demise. A good excuse to go again quickly.
As for the slam poetry it was great and I am only sorry I did not realise who I was listening to at the time.
Keep up the good work. Does the Good Earth Book offer any advice on how to deal with banks?
Alastair replying:
Thanks for those kind comments. The Big Earth Book says a lot about money and finance generally, tackling the big issues of how it is made, who owns it, what it does etc. It doesn't get down to the nitty-gritty of how to deal wiith your bank, I'm afraid. But it is stimulating and challenging enough to make you want to explore ways of handling your finances diffferently. How about ethical iinvestment? And using a bank like Triodos in Bristol?
It's an interesting comment you make about B & B's in France, and I am rather afraid that we are masters of our own demise, and even, dare I say it, Sawdays is also part of the decline. I still have my 1995 Sawdays Guide, and have stayed a number of times in B&B's found therein. However, I noticed as time went by that the prices quickly rose, and furthermore if you visit a Sawdays B&B it will be crammed with other Brits, generally all charming, but it doesn't add to the French experience..... Also, when the charges for appearing in the guide went up to a commercial rate one B&B owner we stayed with said they didn't get the visitors they needed to justify to cost, and it was exactly the sort of place Sawdays raves about....all food produced on their farm, including the sausages, high in the Massif. Wonderful family. Nowadays, I don't buy the guides, we travel through France as we used to, on a wing and a prayer, and generally manage to find the B &B's and hotels we found 10 or 20 years ago. If I use Sawdays now, I simply use the internet, and it's only if we really need to be somewhere on particular date. Those B&B's are still out there, but sadly, I don't think Sawdays attracts them anymore. Sawdays from my rather middle aged perpective has become safe and rather suburban. Good, but not really interesting any more. And by wanting a more "hotel" experience, holiday makers have demamnded, and made it so. A little depressing, but sadly it happens all over the world when places become popular and therefore more commercialised.
I am a new "Sawdays-reader", I am Belgian, leaving in the Ardèche in France. So my English is not very good! But I agree completely with the anonymous writer above. I have seen changing the B&B's in France. A few of them still exist, but they cannot compete with the "new" style of what they are still calling B&B: houses with exaggerated luxuary comfort, hotel-services, restaurant-dinners and that all at very high prices! But this is what the most "tourists" are asking...World is changing: le globalisme!
I think we have to invent another name for those "houses"!
Because "chambres d'hôtes" means:
"accueillir des touristes dans une maison particulière où réside l'hôte pour partager la convivialité pour une nuit ou un séjour".
Having myself an old chestnut-farm from the 17th century as an B&B, we like to keep the "soul" of the house as it was. I explain it also to my guests coming from everywhere and ... they do like it!
And off course I made also some concessions...we enlarged the very old swimming-pool (first in the region, exist already 40 years filled up with the water of our source), comfortable beds, and each room his small bathroom ...
But I like to work together with the chestnut-farmer, to know a lot about the nature around, I buy the products like honey, meet, goat-milk, fruits in the farms around in my own small village. So I try to share this with my guests...
I would like to disagree with Anonymous. This year we decided to do a little tour of the Loire Valley rather than go to the same holiday resorts and chose to use your French B&B book. As parents of two small boys and speaking limited French we were delighted with the detail of your book, enabling us to choose B&B's that cater to us. We did not find them to be in any way hotel like (we stayed at 5 different places, not commercialised but very much family run) and we did find them to be as we thought a French B&B would be - slightly shabby (as any home is)but with very friendly, very knowledgable hosts. We met at each place other families with small children who like us were delighted to have used you. I think now that Anonymous is older (probably with older children) it is easy to go ad hoc when looking for places to stay, but as more and more parents with younger children want to experience less restricted accommodation I feel your books give them the opportunity to do so. We will defintately be using you in the future and have recommended you to our friends.
There are thousands and thousands of lovely French chambre d'hotes. We always stay in them on our (frequent) visits to France, and we always have our evening meal there. We have seldom been disappointed.
I am afraid that as mentioned above, they can't afford to be entered in Sawdays books and when they are, they change for the worse. We mainly use Sawdays now to make sure the place we are booking isn't in it! Sorry...
Even more alarming than finding the price of your favourite B&B has gone up is discovering Alastair Sawday himself in residence. This strange grinning, maniacal, yoghurt-swilling, ping-pong playing, rumpled-trousered man is a menace. Your holiday will be ruined as he lectures you on green living and tries to interest you in the piles of unsold guides he carts around with him. Frankly, it's Holiday Inn for me from now on.
I think that's a bit harsh Simon - Alastair's trousers aren't rumpled!
We have been using Alasdair Sawday's Special Places to Stay in France since 2002 and have found it to be a fascinating pathway into discovering individual and often secret corners of France. The reviews are detailed and accurate ; owners take the regular inspections very seriously and strive to maintain standards of welcome plus a wide range of facilities and excellent levels of hygiene. Our experiences have been so rewarding that we rely on the guide completely. If we want to plan ahead then we can refer to the reviews, trace our routes through the maps and then cross reference nearby places of interest. The quality and variety of entries shows us how to access the exact opposite of the official face o France; almost invariably we encounter friendliness and sincere warmth. If I telephone a French host and say " Good day, I have found your name and details in Alasdair Sawday... " there is an immediate and very positive response. The French host also knows that they have somone who is interested in their environment. A useful adjunct in each description shows the languages spoken by the host. If, when we are travelling home, and suddenly decide that we need to break the journey, then the Sawday guide will again come to the rescue. Our latest discovery was a completely concealed Commanderie in Picardie, which is one of the sites of the Knight's Templar. It was not easy to find, but a joy and a restorative delight. Certainly we could not have had such an intriguing and fascinating last night of our most recent holiday. Finally, the guide makes wonderful escapist fireside reading in winter, we're both eagerly awaiting next year's copy so that we can plan next year's adventures !
On British B&B's, I too have been using guides since way, way back. We once did an England tour based solely on the guide book and had a fantastic time. But now either I, or the B&B's have changed. We just stayed at a property in Norfolk (I have left my comments on the appropriate page) but left with the feeling of being fleeced by the owner. This has happened several times - and I don't know how to couch it without appearing either snobbish or "common"! It's as if you are charged £90.00 a night for the privilidge of staying in the property, but no service is provided and you depart with a feeling of having been fleeced. I would be mortified if I invited guests into my home and did not send them off having felt pampered, looked after, well-fed, warm, happy, provided them with local knowledge, provided them with clean surroundings etc etc. Actually the best B&B we have stayed in is not featured in the Sawday guide but it is run by two hotel professionals and is so popular that we would be lucky to get a booking.
Perhaps it is me, I have changed, but I will no longer be staying in B&B's (anyway, a good handful are now becoming "boutique hotels" and can therefore charge even more for even less).
While some of my experiences of Sawdays B&Bs have been mixed, in one respect, in another they are alike: the locations and hosts are delightfully variable - the conviviality is consistently super.
I think we have visited 7 or 8 of Sawdays B&Bs by now in the Pas De Calais, on the Loire and in Burgundy, over about 6 years. We have made a point of having a meal in at least once where it was offered - always interesting, delicious and in good humoured company. Some of the buildings were historic expensively remodeled, other were just lovely old family homes.
We were sad to learn that one was offering B&B for her last year and yes, indeed , she was finding the charges too high and numbers were down, so retirement and a move to a flat in town was anticipated.
Only last night I logged on to look for our B&Bs in France for this summer's visit - the larger maps dont make it easier!
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